CHEMICAL PEELS: some myths, truths and description of frequent acids used.

9 May

Acid peeling is more than just a science, it’s an art form. Just like learning an art it evolves with understanding and experience. There are many myths surrounding the process of skin peeling.  Here are some of them.

Myth: Chemical peels result in scarring and raw skin

Truth: If a trained skin care professional performs the peel, permanent scarring will not be an issue. Redness and peeling are normal with deeper peels, but today there are numerous superficial options available as well as advancements in cosmeceutical formulas that reduce inflammation and rebuild and heal the skin. The long-term effects of the peels are healthier, smoother, more youthful-appearing skin.

Myth: Only one treatment is needed

Truth: Typically several applications must be administered over several months or years, depending on the skin damage. As a skin care professional, assessing and determining what is best for your skin will make all the difference.

Myth: Chemical peels don’t mix with rosacea, pigmented or darker skin types

Truth:There are various levels of chemical peels. The superficial treatments I use follow three designations of intensity including, progressive, mid-depth and deep. Most skin types, including those with pigmentation issues or darker skin respond well to progressive treatments. In fact, peels can have a very positive effect.  Acid blends like 10 percent TCA, 20 percent lactic and salicylic, along with L-ascorbic and azelaic, work well with these skin types. The following is a better description of some of these acids.

  • TCA -Trichloracetic Acid – A very strong acid, TCA penetrates the epidermis, all the way to the upper layers of the dermis. Due to its strength and longer lasting results is used mostly for acne treatments, fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and scarring.
  • Lactic Acid – Lactic acid is a alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and is typically treated  for dryer skin types.  It increases the skin’s natural moisture factor removing dead skin cells and promoting a softer, healthier and more radiant skin.  It’s a milder acid than glycolic and less irritating. It derived from milk or yogurt.
  • Salicylic Acid- Salicylic acid is an oil soluble beta hydroxy acid (BHA) perfect for oily skin and acne prone skin because its deep pore cleansing effects. It’s also used to loosen blackheads and prevents breakouts.  It’s antimicrobial, anti-imfammatory and only penetrates the upper layers of the epidermis.  It’s found naturally in wintergreen leaves, licorice, marigold, sweet birch and other plants.  If your allergic to asprin most likely you’ll have a reaction to Salicylic.
  • L-Ascorbic Acid- It’s a chirally corrected form of vitamin C,  antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen production, penetrates to the upper layers of the dermis and fights free radicals.  Great for cell repair and a good brightener. Sources derived from ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, leafy vegetables, berries, citrus fruits, guavas, tomatoes, melons and paypaya.
  • Azelaic Acid- Very effective in treating hyperpigmentation (including melasma) and in treating acne and rosacea. It’s exfoliating an easily tolerated by the skin. It works well  with both AHA’s and BHA’s.

Skin peels can deliver considerable improvements, but the success of a peel depends on four things: knowledge, selecting fresh quality ingredients to work with, skin analysis, and client compliance.

NAKED A Boutique For Skin

Brazilian Body Waxing, Skin Correction, Male Grooming, Men’s Waxing, Transgender Waxing, Male Brazilians, Female Brazilians, Skin Peels, Facials, Acne Treatments, Hyperpigmentated Skin, Oily Skin, Dry Skin, Aging Skin, Specializing in Clincal Skincare and Dermaplaning.

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